{"id":1848,"date":"2012-06-05T09:36:26","date_gmt":"2012-06-05T16:36:26","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/plantingseedsblog.cdfa.ca.gov\/wordpress\/?p=1848"},"modified":"2012-06-05T10:02:57","modified_gmt":"2012-06-05T17:02:57","slug":"new-york-times-reports-on-upcoming-foie-gras-ban","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/plantingseedsblog.cdfa.ca.gov\/wordpress\/index.php\/2012\/06\/05\/new-york-times-reports-on-upcoming-foie-gras-ban\/","title":{"rendered":"New York Times reports on upcoming foie gras ban"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"http:\/\/plantingseedsblog.cdfa.ca.gov\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/06FOIEGRAS_ILLO-articleInline-v21.jpg\"><\/a><a href=\"http:\/\/plantingseedsblog.cdfa.ca.gov\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/foie-gras-on-plate.jpg\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright size-medium wp-image-1854\" title=\"foie-gras-on-plate\" src=\"http:\/\/plantingseedsblog.cdfa.ca.gov\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/foie-gras-on-plate-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" srcset=\"https:\/\/plantingseedsblog.cdfa.ca.gov\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/foie-gras-on-plate-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/plantingseedsblog.cdfa.ca.gov\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/foie-gras-on-plate.jpg 448w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><a href=\"http:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2012\/06\/06\/dining\/california-chefs-mount-a-repeal-of-foie-gras-ban-set-for-july-1.html?_r=2&amp;scp=5&amp;sq=agriculture&amp;st=nyt\">http:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2012\/06\/06\/dining\/california-chefs-mount-a-repeal-of-foie-gras-ban-set-for-july-1.html?_r=2&amp;scp=5&amp;sq=agriculture&amp;st=nyt<\/a><\/p>\n<h1>Waddling Into the Sunset<\/h1>\n<h6>By <a title=\"More Articles by Jesse McKinley\" rel=\"author\" href=\"http:\/\/topics.nytimes.com\/top\/reference\/timestopics\/people\/m\/jesse_mckinley\/index.html\">JESSE McKINLEY<\/a><\/h6>\n<div id=\"articleBody\">\n<p>PEBBLE BEACH, Calif.<\/p>\n<p>THE countdown to foie-mageddon has begun.<\/p>\n<p>With less than a month until California\u2019s first-in-the nation ban on foie gras takes effect, fans of the fattened duck and goose liver are buying out stocks of the delicacy, searching for legal loopholes and sating themselves at a series of foie-heavy goodbyes.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWe want to get our fill before it\u2019s gone,\u201d said Terrance L. Stinnett, a lawyer from Alamo, Calif., who attended a farewell lunch here recently. \u201cThis is a wake.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>July 1 is the start date of the hotly debated and divisive ban, which prohibits the sale of any product derived from the force-feeding of birds to enlarge their livers \u2014 the only way to mass-produce foie gras. (The law was passed in 2004, but included a seven-and-a-half-year grace period.)<\/p>\n<p>As the deadline approaches, some of the best-known chefs in California \u2014 including <a title=\"More articles about Thomas Keller.\" href=\"http:\/\/topics.nytimes.com\/top\/reference\/timestopics\/people\/k\/thomas_keller\/index.html?inline=nyt-per\">Thomas Keller<\/a>, Gary Danko and Michael Mina \u2014 have been mounting a repeal effort and promising new ethical standards. But they are also making practical preparations for the likelihood that they won\u2019t be able to overturn the law before it takes effect. Even opponents of the ban say going to bat for high-priced foie gras, after all, isn\u2019t exactly an easy political stance in an age of animal rights and fiscal austerity.<\/p>\n<p>So how will chefs replace foie gras, with its butter-soft texture and rich, subtle taste? The short answer, they say, is that they can\u2019t, and the sense of loss is palpable.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIt\u2019s unlike any other animal product that I know of,\u201d said Jon Shook, an owner of Animal, a meat lovers\u2019 paradise in Los Angeles where foie gras regularly appears in sauces, as a torchon and in other forms. \u201cWe\u2019re working on dishes to replace it, but you can never really replace foie gras.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>That sentiment was echoed by Michael Ginor, an owner of Hudson Valley Foie Gras in Ferndale, N.Y., who likened it to delicious Play-Doh.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cYou can shape it into anything you want,\u201d he said. \u201cYou can saut\u00e9 it, you can serve it cold, you can serve it hot, you can cook it at high heat.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>You get the idea. The menu at the Pebble Beach event was indicative of the product\u2019s versatility across land and sea, entree and dessert. Prepared by several opponents of the ban, the meal featured oysters and raw foie gras; lobster and foie gras noodles (created by squeezing liquid foie gras into a broth); beef tenderloin with seared foie gras and a foie gras emulsion, and vanilla and foie gras cr\u00e8me br\u00fbl\u00e9e.<\/p>\n<p>As that suggests, foie gras is not for the weak of heart or the high of cholesterol. Mr. Ginor said that ducks are much more commonly used today because geese are more labor intensive, more susceptible to disease and temperamental, all factors that make the ducks \u201cmore economically sensible\u201d to use, though some believe the taste of goose foie gras is more delicate.<\/p>\n<p>Casey Lane, the chef at the Tasting Kitchen in Los Angeles, said his restaurant almost never serves a portion of foie gras smaller than six to seven ounces, making the dish \u201ca genuine indulgence.\u201d He might counter the dish\u2019s richness with the sweetness and acidity of a peak-of-the-season apple.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cIt\u2019s like having the trump card year round,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n<p>He, too, bemoaned its loss. \u201cThe people that build Porsches, you don\u2019t want your gasoline taken away from you,\u201d he said. \u201cYou\u2019re trying to work at the top of your field.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Beyond the kitchen, there are other responses in the works, including whispers of culinary civil disobedience, in which restaurateurs would continue to serve the dish \u2014 and risk fines up to $1,000 per violation. Others have suggested that they could skirt the law by offering the foie gras free (with $20 glasses of wine).<\/p>\n<p>The end result, however, will likely be very little, if any, foie anywhere in California. And that disheartens people like Greg Daniels, who runs the Haven Gastropub in Pasadena, Calif., and worries about the state\u2019s culinary reputation. \u201cHow seriously can you take our culinary efforts when we can\u2019t even use this product that\u2019s being used everywhere?\u201d he said.<\/p>\n<p>Mr. Daniels warned that the foie gras ban could also limit access to other duck-based dishes, including duck confit and duck-fat French fries. \u201cEven if you can get duck fat, it\u2019s probably going to be too expensive for you to fill up a fryer with it,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n<p>But such concerns have done little to sway the law\u2019s supporters, who see the ban as a victory for humane treatment of animals.<\/p>\n<p>John Burton, the former California legislator who drafted the law, has shot back at the chefs, likening the tradition of foie gras (which dates back centuries) to <a title=\"More articles about waterboarding.\" href=\"http:\/\/topics.nytimes.com\/top\/reference\/timestopics\/subjects\/t\/torture\/waterboarding\/index.html?inline=nyt-classifier\">waterboarding<\/a> and <a title=\"Recent and archival health news about Female Genital Mutilation.\" href=\"http:\/\/topics.nytimes.com\/top\/news\/health\/diseasesconditionsandhealthtopics\/femalegenitalmutilation\/index.html?inline=nyt-classifier\">female genital mutilation<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cWhy don\u2019t you tell those chefs to have a duck cram a lot of food down their gullets and see how they like it?\u201d he asked.<\/p>\n<p>Such passions are not so surprising. Food fights have become increasingly common in statehouses and at kitchen counters alike, as new generations of chefs and their customers drift toward more animal-friendly products and methods of production. Indeed, opponents of the ban argue that <a title=\"More articles about factory farming.\" href=\"http:\/\/topics.nytimes.com\/top\/reference\/timestopics\/subjects\/f\/factory_farming\/index.html?inline=nyt-classifier\">factory farming<\/a> \u2014 not foie gras, which has just two producers in the United States \u2014 is a much more serious issue in terms of public health and humane treatment of animals.<\/p>\n<p>That view was shared by <a title=\"More articles about Michael Pollan.\" href=\"http:\/\/topics.nytimes.com\/top\/reference\/timestopics\/people\/p\/michael_pollan\/index.html?inline=nyt-per\">Michael Pollan<\/a>, the author of \u201cIn Defense of Food: An Eater\u2019s Manifesto,\u201d whose examinations of the modern food chain have placed him on the front lines of many battles over what is on the menu. Even though he is not much of a foie gras eater, he does not see the point of the ban.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI think it\u2019s really a way for people to feel like they\u2019ve done something without doing anything,\u201d he said. \u201cThere\u2019s so many more serious problems we\u2019re not dealing with.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>But as the Humane Society of the United States points out, many states are moving toward more protections for farm animals, including veal cows, hens and feedlot cattle and pigs. At least two other states, New York and Hawaii, have considered bans on foie gras.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cCalifornia is leading,\u201d said Wayne Pacelle, the society\u2019s president and chief executive. \u201cBut it\u2019s not alone.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Mr. Pacelle rejected the idea that animal rights activists were singling out a small industry rather than taking on bigger fish. \u201cThe notion that we\u2019re picking on foie gras is soft,\u201d he said. \u201cThere\u2019s nobody that takes on big agriculture businesses like we do. And foie gras is just cruelty for a table treat.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>It remains unclear exactly how painful force feeding (known as gavage) is. The Humane Society says that the process can cause bruises, lacerations and sores, and that the ducks\u2019 livers may grow to 10 times their normal size.<\/p>\n<p>The American Veterinary Medical Association says that that is true, though ducks\u2019 livers also naturally fluctuate seasonally, but not to such extremes as those of force-fed birds. The association says it is difficult to say how much pain the animals are in when tubes are in place, though it also says that \u201cforce feeding overrides animal preference.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>David Kinch, the acclaimed chef at Manresa in Los Gatos, Calif., who opposes the ban, said part of the problem with the ban\u2019s logic was that its supporters had mistakenly anthropomorphized the ducks\u2019 experience of being force fed. \u201cThey imagine a tube being shoved down their human throat,\u201d he said. Rather, he said, ducks have no gag reflex, nor are geese as cuddly as they appear.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cThey are the nastiest animals on the planet,\u201d Mr. Kinch said. \u201cThey are guard dogs in France.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>The group fighting the ban, the Coalition for Humane and Ethical Farming Standards (or CHEFS), has suggested a variety of measures that might make gavage more appetizing, including hand feeding, cage-free birds and regular inspections by animal welfare officers.<\/p>\n<p>None of those seemed to sway animal rights supporters like Bryan Pease, of the Animal Protection and Rescue League in San Diego, who called the chefs\u2019 efforts \u201cfalse and disingenuous.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>\u201cAll the ducks are already hand fed,\u201d he said. \u201cThey\u2019re hand fed because that\u2019s the only way to force a tube down their throat.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Nor was that sort of image likely to sway foie gras aficionados like Mr. Stinnett and his wife, Annette, who spent $200 each to eat seven courses of foie gras in Pebble Beach. They said the ban had already foiled their plans for Mr. Stinnett\u2019s birthday in July: Ms. Stinnett said she had tried to bribe a local chef to set some foie gras aside, but no luck.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cI said, \u2018Will $500 find me some foie gras?\u2019 \u201d Ms. Stinnett said. \u201cThey said no. He doesn\u2019t want to take a chance.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>http:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2012\/06\/06\/dining\/california-chefs-mount-a-repeal-of-foie-gras-ban-set-for-july-1.html?_r=2&amp;scp=5&amp;sq=agriculture&amp;st=nyt Waddling Into the Sunset By JESSE McKINLEY PEBBLE BEACH, Calif. THE countdown to foie-mageddon has begun. With less than a month until California\u2019s first-in-the nation ban on foie gras takes effect, fans of the fattened duck and goose liver &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/plantingseedsblog.cdfa.ca.gov\/wordpress\/index.php\/2012\/06\/05\/new-york-times-reports-on-upcoming-foie-gras-ban\/\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":12,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[1],"tags":[190],"class_list":["post-1848","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-foie-gras"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\r\n<title>New York Times reports on upcoming foie gras ban  - CDFA&#039;s Planting Seeds Blog<\/title>\r\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\r\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/plantingseedsblog.cdfa.ca.gov\/wordpress\/index.php\/2012\/06\/05\/new-york-times-reports-on-upcoming-foie-gras-ban\/\" \/>\r\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\r\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\r\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"New York Times reports on upcoming foie gras ban  - CDFA&#039;s Planting Seeds Blog\" \/>\r\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"http:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2012\/06\/06\/dining\/california-chefs-mount-a-repeal-of-foie-gras-ban-set-for-july-1.html?_r=2&amp;scp=5&amp;sq=agriculture&amp;st=nyt Waddling Into the Sunset By JESSE McKINLEY PEBBLE BEACH, Calif. THE countdown to foie-mageddon has begun. 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THE countdown to foie-mageddon has begun. With less than a month until California\u2019s first-in-the nation ban on foie gras takes effect, fans of the fattened duck and goose liver &hellip; Continue reading &rarr;","og_url":"https:\/\/plantingseedsblog.cdfa.ca.gov\/wordpress\/index.php\/2012\/06\/05\/new-york-times-reports-on-upcoming-foie-gras-ban\/","og_site_name":"CDFA&#039;s Planting Seeds Blog","article_published_time":"2012-06-05T16:36:26+00:00","article_modified_time":"2012-06-05T17:02:57+00:00","og_image":[{"width":448,"height":300,"url":"https:\/\/plantingseedsblog.cdfa.ca.gov\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/06\/foie-gras-on-plate.jpg","type":"image\/jpeg"}],"author":"Office of Public Affairs","twitter_card":"summary_large_image","twitter_misc":{"Written by":"Office of Public Affairs","Est. reading time":"8 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