Planting Seeds - Food & Farming News from CDFA

USDA – Farm exports hit record levels


Statement from Agriculture Secretary Vilsack on Record U.S. Farm Exports for Calendar Year 2011

WASHINGTON, Feb. 10, 2012 –Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack made the following statement regarding data released today showing U.S. farm exports reached a record $136.3 billion in calendar year 2011:

“The data released today by USDA represents a record-breaking calendar year for farm exports, demonstrating—once again—that American agriculture remains a bright spot in our nation’s economy. We saw a rise in both the value and volume of U.S. agricultural exports worldwide in 2011, as international sales rose $20.5 billion over the previous record set in calendar year 2010. Total agricultural exports for calendar year 2011 were a robust $136.3 billion.

“These figures indicate how demand for the American brand of agriculture continues to soar worldwide, supporting good jobs for Americans across a variety of industries such as transportation, renewable energy, manufacturing, food services, and on-farm employment. During the past three years, the U.S. farm sector has continued to support and create jobs on a consistent basis, strengthening an American economy that’s built to last. Every $1 billion in agricultural exports supports 8,400 American jobs, meaning that U.S. farm exports helped support more than 1 million U.S. jobs in 2011.

“And that gets to the innovation of our American farmers, ranchers and growers. American agriculture continues to apply the latest in technology and achieve a nearly unparalleled level of productivity. In fact, U.S. agriculture is the second-most productive sector of our economy in the past few decades outside of information technology.

“Exports of almost all major U.S. commodities rose in calendar year 201l, helping us to reach President Obama’s goal of doubling all U.S. exports by the end of 2014. Grains were the biggest contributor to the overall record, reaching an all-time high of $37.7 billion, a $9.2 billion increase over 2010. Cotton experienced the biggest year-to-year increase, up 44 percent from 2010, reaching a record $8.5 billion. Dairy and pork exports also set records in 2011, reaching $4.8 billion and $6 billion respectively.

“Another success story is U.S. beef exports. Last year, the United States exported an all-time high of $5.4 billion worth of beef and beef products, surpassing the previous record by more than $1.6 billion. The volume of shipments also surpassed the 2003 levels, the last year before a detection of bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE) in Washington State disrupted U.S. trade. The return to pre-2003 levels marks an important milestone in USDA’s steadfast efforts to open and expand international markets. Despite this progress, restrictions continue to constrain exports to many of our key markets and we remain fully committed to breaking down those trade barriers.

“There was more good news for U.S. beef exporters when United Arab Emirates (UAE) officials issued a decree on Jan. 24, 2012 liberalizing imports of U.S. beef by eliminating age restrictions. The expansion of U.S. beef access to UAE—one of the largest markets for U.S. beef in the Middle East—underscores the tenacity of the Obama Administration to improve our trade relationships, expand export opportunities and strengthen an American economy that’s built to last.”

The latest export data is available via the Global Agricultural Trade System at http://www.fas.usda.gov/data.asp

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Kitchen grease thieves in action

This is video of inedible kitchen grease thieves in action recently in the Sacramento area. There has been a lot of interest in this issue, and CDFA is continuing its program teaming up with law enforcement to try to catch the crooks in the act. Please watch the video to its conclusion.

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USA Today – Latest illnesses point to raw milk’s popularity

http://yourlife.usatoday.com/fitness-food/safety/story/2012-02-03/Latest-illnesses-point-to-raw-milks-popularity/52951204/1

WASHINGTON – An outbreak of bacterial infections on the East Coast illustrates the popularity of raw, unpasteurized milk despite strong warnings from public health officials about the potential danger.

Even presidential candidate Ron Paul has joined the cause of consumers looking to buy unprocessed “real foods” straight from the farm, saying government shouldn’t deny them that choice.

An outbreak of a campylobacter bacterial infection on the East Coast is a reminder of the potential hazards, however. Raw milk from a dairy in Pennsylvania is now linked to 38 illnesses in four states, and the farm has temporarily suspended sales.

Consumers who want unpasteurized milk have to work to find it. It’s against federal law to transport it across state lines and most states don’t allow it to be sold in stores off the farm. Twenty states prohibit raw milk sales altogether.

The government says the milk is unsafe because of the pathogens cows may encounter on the farm. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention points out that raw milk killed many people — especially young children — before the onset of pasteurization, which heats milk to high temperatures to kill disease-causing germs.

The CDC says pasteurized milk is rich in proteins, carbohydrates and other nutrients, and that heat only slightly decreases thiamine, vitamin B12, and vitamin C.

While the government contends that milk is only a minor source of those nutrients anyway, raw milk advocates say that’s proof that pasteurization makes milk less wholesome and pure.

The government doesn’t keep records of raw milk consumption or sales but it’s clear that the product is riding the coattails of a larger food movement that encourages less processing and more “real food.” Raw milk goes a step further than organic milk free of growth hormones. Organic milk, too, has enjoyed a sales boost in recent years.

“We are pushing for consumer choice and freedom and a variety of dairy options for people,” says Kimberly Hartke of the Weston A. Price Foundation, an activist group that advocates “restoring nutrient-dense foods to the human diet.” Price was a dentist who studied global nutrition around the turn of the 20th century.

Advocates say far more illnesses are caused each year by leafy greens, deli meats and other products produced in much larger quantities than raw milk.

“To outlaw or ban any natural food because it could possibly make you sick is an extreme position, because there is no safe food,” Hartke says.

That’s a position that presidential contender Paul, a doctor, understands. He appears to have acknowledged the potential risks of raw milk when he said last summer that “what I’m doing in politics is not exactly the medical opinion.”

Still, he said, “as long as you don’t force other people, and as long as you don’t defraud people, you ought to have a choice.”

Supporters of raw milk are passionate, and the issue has become one of the most animated food debates. Raw milk consumers and Price foundation representatives have held protests in Washington to fight Food and Drug Administration crackdowns on some farms that sell raw milk.

The fact that there’s even a debate infuriates many in the public health community.

“The intensity with which raw milk supporters believe in this product is almost unheard of, certainly for a food,” says Sarah Klein, an attorney for the Center for Science in the Public Interest. “It’s like snake oil.”

Klein says advocates often mislead consumers by describing bucolic settings and happy cows.

“These are still animals, they defecate inches from where the milk is produced,” she says. “They stand in it, they swat their tails through it. That’s all very natural. It’s just a matter of course that raw milk is contaminated.”

The owner of the Pennsylvania dairy, Family Cow farm in Chambersburg, posted a message on the farm’s website last week saying that several customers had called them to say they had been experiencing “acute diarrhea, fever and stomach cramps.”

Owner Edwin Shank said in the posting that the farm’s testing had shown samples to be negative for campylobacter and speculated that the illnesses may be from another cause. But the Pennsylvania health department has linked the outbreak to the farm, and a spokeswoman for the Maryland’s health department says an unopened bottle from the farm tested positive. For campylobacter? What is it, anyway?

Raw milk sales are illegal in Maryland, but the state has four illnesses from the outbreak. Those sickened presumably drove to Pennsylvania and brought the milk back for their own consumption, said Maria Said of the Maryland Department of Health and Mental Hygiene.

One person is also sick in New Jersey and two in West Virginia, according to the Pennsylvania Department of Health. Thirty one people are sick in Pennsylvania, many of them in Franklin County, where the farm is located.

Pennsylvania has had at least seven disease outbreaks linked to raw milk consumption since 2006, involving almost 200 people, according to the health department. Pennsylvania is one of 17 states where some type of raw milk sales are allowed, according to the National Association of State Departments of Agriculture.

———

Online:

CDC on raw milk safety: http://www.cdc.gov/foodsafety/rawmilk/raw-milk-index.html

Weston A. Price Foundation: http://www.westonaprice.org

———

Associated Press writer JoAnn Loviglio in Philadelphia contributed to this report.

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CDFA Protects – Making sure cheese is wholesome and safe

As part of its mission to protect the food supply and consumers, The California Department of Food and Agriculture educates about the health risks of consuming cheese produced by unlicensed manufacturers and sold through underground operations.
Licensed, safe and wholesome cheese is regularly sold in retail stores and is authenticated by state labeling requirements. Please view the video link for an entertaining look at this issue.

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Sacramento Bee – Capital-area matchmakers link would-be farmers with plots of land

http://www.sacbee.com/2012/01/31/4226717/capital-area-matchmakers-link.html

Published Tuesday, Jan. 31, 2012


Putting farmers onto underused land was once a matter of creating homesteads.

Now it has entered the computer age, with nonprofits using the Internet to match farmland with growers.

The need, advocates say, comes in part from an aging farm population.

California farmers age 65 or older outnumber farmers under 35 by 9 to 1, said Liya Schwartzman, Central Valley coordinator for California FarmLink, one of those nonprofit groups.

“In many cases, their children don’t want to go into farming,” she said. “We need more beginning farmers right now.”

At the same time, many landowners are hoping to preserve the land for agriculture, not development, and want to help younger farmers – not large agribusiness.

It led to a dating service of sorts for farms.

“We’re kind of a Match.com, a little bit,” Schwartzman said.

FarmLink has online listings of about 80 land opportunities in the Central Valley and connections to around 800 would-be farmers.

Land opportunities can be as small as a half-acre or as big as 800 acres.

There is an urban parcel in West Sacramento that the owner wanted productive, and orchard acreage in Apple Hill looking for someone new to take it over.

One of the successful linkages produced an operation known as the Cloverleaf at Bridgeway Farms, at the Kidwell Road exit off Interstate 80 west of Davis.

When Bridgeway’s longtime owner Rich Collins wanted to start farming 30 years ago, finding land to start his endive specialty operation was tough.

“When I started, there was no Web,” Collins said. “You were literally out there driving around.”

Eventually, he found five acres that were part of another farmer’s 4,000-acre operation.

A couple of years ago, when Collins had 16 acres he wanted to put in the hands of a new farmer – a way of paying things forward, he said – he turned to FarmLink and its database.

FarmLink connected him with Emma Torbert, 32, who had interned and apprenticed on farms in the East, and works at UC Davis’ Agriculture Sustainability Institute.

She wanted to farm, but had no land.

“It was through FarmLink that I saw his land and then I contacted him,” Torbert said.

She was taken by Collins’ vision of Bridgeway Farms becoming a place where travelers on the interstate could stop to see how a working farm operates, with a dairy, winery, chickens and more.

Collins, in turn, was taken by Torbert and her farming partner Sasha Klein.

“I appreciate young folk who are willing to work,” Collins said.

FarmLink helped them craft a lease agreement – $1 for the first year. That’s how the Cloverleaf began.

The two farmers just broke even last year, their first, because of expenses bringing irrigation to the parcel.

This year, they are taking over four acres of orchard from Collins and adding two more partners.

The orchard will hold a pruning workshop Sunday. See www.thecloverleaffarm. com for more information.

“It’s somewhat of a time-honored tradition in agriculture,” Collins said of his help for the young farmers.

If FarmLink is like Match.com, the Land Bank of Living Lands Agrarian Network is more like Craigslist.

The Network, based in Nevada County, has nine parcels it manages with a network of young growers, taking on interns to train new farmers.

As the word spread, however, they found more people who had small amounts of land they wanted farmed.

“We, as Living Lands, were approached by so many landowners, we didn’t have the resources,” said Rachel Berry, the group’s director.

They established the online Land Bank late in 2011.

Now, the website, landbank.livinglandsagrariannetwork.org, has 10 listed sites from Nevada County to Orangevale.

While FarmLink provides connections, lease models, advice and even some farm loans, those who use the Land Bank can make their own arrangements, Berry said. “Typically, there’s very little money exchanged,” Berry said.

Like Brian Ekiss, who lives on 5.5 acres outside Nevada City. He just wanted someone to use some of his acreage.

“We went to the farmer’s market and we just had this light bulb go off,” Ekiss said.

They contacted Living Lands and offered the space in a handshake deal, not expecting money.

“We’re not getting paid; we have some picking rights,” said Ekiss. “We’re sort of compensated by being part of the network.”

 

© Copyright The Sacramento Bee.  All rights reserved.


Call The Bee’s Carlos  Alcalá, (916) 321-1987.

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California Welcomes Dozer, Our Newest Detector Dog

Dozer with his handler, Jennifer Berger

Dozer with his handler, Jennifer Berger

Dozer the detector dog has reported for duty!  He brings our total to 13 dogs throughout the state that spend their working hours sniffing around package-delivery facilities, detecting parcels that contain fruits, vegetables, plants and other agricultural materials.  These dogs protect California’s citizens and its agriculture from harmful pests, diseases and weeds that could otherwise sneak into our state and cause dangerous and expensive infestations and outbreaks.

Dozer, a three-year-old Labrador retriever mix, came to us from Atlanta Lab Rescue.  All of the dogs in the California Agriculture Detector Dog Program are rescued dogs. Dozer arrived in California earlier this month to begin his assignment with his handler, Jennifer Berger with the Sacramento County Agricultural Commissioner’s Office.  He works at various shipping facilities in the Sacramento Valley area.  Jennifer reports that Dozer is a remarkably strong and determined dog who loves to chew on a big Nylabone as they ride to work.  When he’s off the clock, he likes to tug on his “Kong Wubba” toy and fetch a ball.

The state’s program currently consists of 13 dog-handler teams in nine counties; Alameda (one team), Contra Costa County (two teams), Fresno (one team), Los Angeles (two teams), Sacramento (one team), San Bernardino (two teams), San Diego (two teams), San Joaquin (one team) and Santa Clara County (one team).  The teams also travel to neighboring counties to cover additional areas. Photos of the other dogs as well as our video “The Nose Knows” are available online at http://www.cdfa.ca.gov/plant/dogteams/index.html. The program is a cooperative effort between the United States Department of Agriculture, the California Department of Food and Agriculture and the County Agricultural Commissioners and Sealers Association.

Since the program began in 2006, the dog teams have intercepted thousands of mislabeled or otherwise illegal packages, including shipments containing more than 360 actionable insect and weed pests. A few of their significant interceptions are:

  • Asian citrus psyllid (ACP) infected with huanglongbing (AKA citrus greening), found in unmarked luggage originating in India; huanglongbing is considered the world’s most devastating citrus disease.
  • Japanese beetle, found in packing material inside a parcel originating from Arkansas; this pest damages the foliage, flowers or fruits of more than 300 different ornamental and agricultural plants.
  • Burrowing nematode, found in root samples collected from unmarked trees originating in Florida; this pest is a parasite of the roots of fruit trees, vegetable plants and other crops.
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Agricultural Education and Our Moment to Shine

Picture of a Cal Ag Plate

Be an Ag Fan and reserve your plate today!

Over the last year I have seen a great effort by the FFA, 4-H and other agricultural education associations in raising the visibility and interest in the California Special Interest License Plate for Agriculture (CalAgPlate). This program is a great opportunity to provide consistent funding to agricultural education in California through a portion of fees collected in the annual renewal of license plates. 

 Students have run creative social media campaigns and videos to generate interest and purchases of CalAgPlates and we should not let this opportunity to support agricultural education pass us by.

In early April, the CalAgPlate initiative will expire and almost two years of recruitment has generated approximately 2,000 registrations. Our goal remains 7,500 CalAgPlates and I know that the agricultural community and our diverse stakeholder base can help step forward to make this goal a reality.

 Agricultural education is a vital to our urban and rural communities and provides training, confidence and a connection to farming that no level of consumer marketing could ever achieve. As agriculture looks to get closer to the consumer, we should not abandon the opportunity to support the next generation of farming in our state. I ask for your support of this important program and in reaching our registration goal in the few short months that remain.

Visit CalAgPlate and purchase one today!

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San Francisco Chronicle – USDA releases new plant hardiness zone map

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2012/01/26/BU011MUBO0.DTL

Stacy Finz, Chronicle Staff Writer

Thursday, January 26, 2012

A new Plant Hardiness Zone Map released by the federal government Wednesday shows that temperatures across the country are getting warmer and could affect gardens and crops.

The map is designed to help the estimated 80 million gardeners in this country, as well as farmers and horticulture businesses, identify where and when plants grow best by breaking up geographical areas into 26 zones.

It’s the first time since 1990 that the U.S. Department of Agriculture has updated the map. The new one offers an interactive format and looks at 30 years of weather patterns, showing that in some cases – Ohio, Nebraska and Texas – nearly entire states have been updated to warmer zones. Even California’s temperate climate has seen change, with a number of communities in the Bay Area also being shifted to warmer zones.

The USDA is attributing the zone modifications to better data and technology. The new map also takes into account topography – slope, elevation, prevailing winds and proximity to water – for the first time.

Not for climate change

“The map is not a good instrument for determining climate change,” said Kim Kaplan, a spokeswoman for the USDA’s Agricultural Research Service., “In some cases where areas changed zones there was less than a one-degree change in temperature.”

The new map, which allows users to find their zones by ZIP code, includes two new warmer zones – 12, for climates with average lows of 50 to 60 degrees, and 13, for 60 to 70 degrees.

William Miller, a Cornell University horticulture professor and a leading expert on floriculture, said while the zones provide some useful guidelines, the map is less relevant for areas with microclimate variation.

“This is a real ho-hum for California,” he said, adding that the state is too diverse for a map based mostly on average minimum temperatures.

“If the temperature changes by a fraction of a degree or a degree it’s not going to change almonds growing near Woodland,” he said.

‘Push the envelope’

Christopher Carmichael, associate director of collections of horticulture at UC Berkeley’s Botanical Garden, agreed.

“We have to go with our own experiences,” he said. “And as gardeners we like to push the envelope.”

Carmichael also believes that Californians are better served by Sunset’s “Western Garden Book” than they are by the USDA’s map. The Menlo Park-based magazine has been putting out its own zoned map since 1954 and specializes in the microclimates of the West, specifically California. For decades, Sunset has consulted with top scientists who, besides temperatures, have based the zone map on elevation, continental air influences, the effects of the ocean and latitude, said Kathleen Brenzel, the book’s editor.

The latest version of the “Western Garden Book,” an update from 2007, is scheduled to be released in February. Brenzel said the new edition addresses climate change.

“We’ve seen warming in our area,” she said. “But it’s very subtle. What it means is that we can plant a little bit earlier in spring.”

Although the USDA updated Berkeley to a warmer zone more suited for the types of plants grown in Southern California, Florida and Hawaii, gardening expert Griff Hulsey said it will be business as usual at Berkeley Horticulture, the 90-year-old gardening store where he works.

“It’s one thing for zones to change on a map,” he said. “But we’re not going to start recommending plants that we haven’t had years of experience growing in this area.”

Anni Jensen, of Annie’s Annuals and Perennials, a Richmond nursery, said she doesn’t see much change for her business either.

“Local nurseries may shift their inventory a bit, but with our mail-order business I don’t see that happening,” she said, warning, “Habitual dependence on any guideline can always get you in trouble.”

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Future is bullish for Ag graduates

Poster: Agriculture is the nation's largest employer with more than 23 million jobs involved in some facet of American agricultureMy email in-box lit up last week after Yahoo! published a story claiming that college degrees in agriculture are useless.  It certainly is a counterintuitive statement. Across our country, farming is hotter than ever. Agricultural exports broke records in 2011, and demand for local production of food made available through farmers’ markets and other venues is an exciting trend that I firmly believe is here to stay.

The view from here shows a dramatic increase in farming-related job opportunities, and that’s much more than young people on the farm. There are roughly 300 different kinds of careers in the food industry. It takes a lot of hands to grow, package, distribute and serve food to hungry consumers here and around the world. Many of the available jobs are unfilled because, as technology advances, there is a corresponding need for science and technical educational programs. The foundation to meet that demand must be built at the high school level and then extended into colleges and universities. Some of our best minds are working right now to address this issue. Agriculture needs young minds now more than ever.

In the meantime, as the Washington Post reported recently, Ag graduates are finding jobs. The Post referenced a study by Georgetown University’s Center on Education and the Workforce showing that Ag graduates were among the most employable coming out of college.

So that Ag degree is very useful, and graduates will be highly sought-after well
into the future. Don’t let anybody tell you differently.

Posted in AG Vision, Agricultural Education, Community-based Food System, Food Access, Trade, Uncategorized | Tagged , , , , | 4 Comments

NY Times – Fewer Cows’ Hides May Bear the Mark of Home

http://www.nytimes.com/2012/01/26/us/ear-tagging-proposal-may-mean-fewer-branded-cattle.html?_r=1

By

MORGAN HILL, Calif. — In the half-light of a winter evening here, a tawny calf skitters across the pasture after its mother, a Lazy T brand visible on its right hip. The brand, used by the Tilton Ranch since Janet Burback’s parents settled on this land in 1917, appears on the ranchers’ shirts, their trucks and their business cards.

To Ms. Burback, the brand is a matter of pride and tradition. “Anybody who’s still branding their cattle, that’s the last hold on something their grandparents and great-grandparents started,” she said.

But it is also a matter of necessity. When a cow strays or falls into the hands of rustlers — still a significant threat — it is the brand she counts on to bring the animal home.

So, like many other ranchers in California and other Western states, Ms. Burback looks with suspicion on a federal plan to institute an identification system for cattle, one that emphasizes numbered ear tags rather than brands as the official markers of a cow’s identity. Ranchers worry that the new regulation, in the final phase of revision, represents a first step toward ending branding, a method they regard as the most visible, permanent and reliable way of identifying who owns which cow.

Federal officials have long argued that a national identification system is necessary to quickly trace outbreaks of diseases like bovine brucellosis, tuberculosis and mad cow, and that it would protect not only the health of animals and humans but also the cattle industry, which suffered in 2003 after the discovery of mad cow disease in a dairy cow in Washington State.

But cattle ranchers have not been enthusiastic about mandatory ear tags. An earlier federal proposal that started with a voluntary trial met with fierce opposition and was scuttled in 2009.

The new rule would require tagging — either with radio frequency devices or lower-cost metal “brite” tags — of cattle moved across state lines. Each tag would carry a unique numeric code. Stored in a database, the codes would allow animal health authorities to determine rapidly where an animal came from in the event of a disease outbreak.

Aware that it is treading on delicate territory, the Department of Agriculture has included an exception in the rule, allowing brands to be used as unofficial identification in trade between states that agree to accept the method. Fourteen states have brand inspection laws, most of them in the West and Southwest.

Yet many ranchers remain deeply skeptical. The department received close to 1,600 comments on the proposed regulation, many of them negative. The National Cattlemen’s Beef Association has given qualified support to the proposal but said it would also like some parts clarified, and the inclusion of branding as an official identification method.

Opposition is especially strong among ranchers in California and other Western states. Although the Agriculture Department has said it will initially provide metal ear tags at no cost — the electronic versions cost $2 to $4 apiece — many ranchers believe the program will prove more costly than federal officials have predicted. And they are leery of federal intrusion into their business practices.

“It all comes down to a bureaucrat in Washington, D.C., behind a desk making the rules and deciding what’s best for you as a rancher and you as a ranching family, and that’s what people distrust,” said Kevin Kester, president of the California Cattlemen’s Association. The association, Mr. Kester said, opposes the rule in its current form and has written to the Agriculture Department asking for revisions, including greater recognition of branding and raising the age at which cattle must be tagged.

Most ranchers here say they recognize the need for some sort of tracking system and many, like Ms. Burback, use electronic ear tags in addition to branding, but as a marketing tool rather than for identification. The electronic tags are increasingly important in exports to other countries, which account for about 15 percent of American beef and just over $5 billion in sales. Japan and South Korea both require electronic identification tags that verify the animal’s age and place of birth.

And some in the industry are ardent supporters of the federal plan. Jim Warren, the owner of 101 Livestock, an auction market in Aromas, Calif., said he thought the rule made sense. “It’s a no-brainer,” he said.

Mr. Warren, who sells electronic identification tags to the Central Valley producers who send 35,000 cows a year to his auction market, said the ear tags are a way for ranchers to say, “I raised this animal, it came from my place and I identified it, so if there is a problem you can trace it back to me and I stand behind it.” Brands, he believes, are outmoded and less efficient in helping officials track down disease threats because ranchers in different states can register the same brand, making tracking difficult when animals are commingled in feed lots.

The tags, which are stapled into an animal’s ear, are also less painful for the cow, Mr. Warren said.

“I just want to get away from it because I think we’ve got a better way,” he said.

But for most ranchers, ear tags will never inspire the same love and trust as the double sixes, circle Ts and other symbols that have marked cattle since the Spanish arrived in the early 1700s. And they worry that even with the nod to branding in the federal proposal, in an age of increasing reliance on electronic devices, it would eventually spell the end of the cattle brand.

Jack Lavers, a sixth-generation rancher whose family has run cattle in the mountains north of Bakersfield since 1858, said that when electronic identification tags were instituted in Australia, brand inspectors stopped paying attention to brands. He fears the same will happen here.

“In this industry, time is money,” he said. “It’s human nature. We’re eventually going to get lazy about it and the brand inspectors are going to say, ‘Well, this electronic brand matches the brand ownership,’ and quit looking at the brand.”

But ear tags, Mr. Lavers said, can be cut off by rustlers — 1,200 to 1,400 cows are stolen each year in California, according to the state Department of Food and Agriculture’s bureau of livestock identification — or torn off in thickets or on rocky bluffs as cows make their way across the rough country that typifies much of California’s grazing land.

And while he appreciates the lore and tradition of branding — “the heraldry of the range,” as the historian J. Evetts Haley called it — Mr. Lavers said he brands for hard, practical reasons.

“I don’t brand my cattle to just brand them for fun,” he said. “I’m not doing it just to burn an animal. I’m doing it because it’s a permanent mark of identification. It’s scarred into the hide, and it’s there forever.”

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