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Foie Gras Goes Underground at California “Duckeasies” – from Bloomberg News

http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2012-07-17/foie-gras-goes-underground-at-california-duckeasies-.html

Forbidden Foie Gras Goes Underground at ‘Duckeasy'

Kevork Djansezian/Getty Images

A Foie gras dish is prepared at a restaurant in California.

 

On July 15, about a dozen people walked into a cozy San Francisco restaurant with a window sign reading “private event” to savor foie gras, California’s newest forbidden fruit.

They paid $100 apiece for “a 10-course tasting of quasi-legal goodness,” according to the online notice for the“Duckeasy” event. Each received an e-mail with the address only hours before the first sandwich of Wonder bread, grape jelly and foie gras mousse was served.

“I want to support the people who believe in foie and who will defy the rules,” Jolanda Nuestro, 48, a homemaker, said at the communal table before a toast broke out: “To foie!”

“To being force-fed foie!” another guest added.

Two weeks after California’s ban on selling and producing the fatty duck liver, chefs are hosting clandestine events, offering it as a free side dish or selling it to regulars without listing it on the menu.

In an unscientific survey, four of eight restaurants visited in the two weeks since the ban offered foie gras. Four that had it on their menus before the ban refused to serve it when asked.

David Rieken, 49, a personal assistant from San Francisco who discovered the Duckeasy dinner through a friend, said he was drawn in part because of its secretive nature.

“I would be lying if I said there wasn’t a certain exclusivity that is cool and a defiance against a law that we think is rooted in double standards,” Rieken said while sipping a glass of French red wine before dinner.

Eating Up

The 2004 law that went into effect July 1 is backed by animal-rights activists who say force-feeding ducks and geese through a tube to produce a fat liver is cruel. Violators are subject to a fine of as much as $1,000 per infraction, and as much as $1,000 for each day it continues.

Daniel Mallahan, 27, a San Francisco resident and one of the Duckeasy dinner’s chefs and organizers, said the event fell within the law.

“We’re not charging for foie at all,” Mallahan said.“We’re charging for tickets to an event. None of the foie is actually from the state of California. That’s not really an issue.”

On July 14, the Presidio Social Club, a San Francisco restaurant, drew a crowd to savor a $20 seared foie gras slider garnished with pineapple and a main dish of steak with an $18 foie gras side in honor of Bastille Day.

Dead Either Way

The restaurant, once a barracks in the Presidio of San Francisco, a former Army post near the Golden Gate Bridge that is now a national park, is on federal land and immune from the state law, owner Ray Tang, 44, said during the dinner.

“We’re really not in California,” Tang said.

Jim Lewis, 43, a San Jose computer engineer, and his wife, Susan, ordered the sliders.

Animals are raised for food and “we’re going to end up eating them anyway,” Lewis said. “It’s not like it makes sense to treat them very well and then turn around and kill them and eat them.”

Outside, about 20 protesters held photos of animals being force-fed and chanted “There’s no excuse for animal abuse!” as police stood by.

“As of July 1, virtually every single restaurant in the state is now complying with the law,” Dana Portnoy, 32, one of the protesters and a Bay Area campaign organizer for the Animal Protection and Rescue League, said in an interview. “So the law is working despite the fact that they’re trying to evade enforcement.”

Liver Lovers

The threat of enforcement is not deterring some chefs in Southern California.

At Cafe Mimosa in San Clemente, about an hour south of Los Angeles, those in the know ask for the “fancy bread.”

“It’s family, it’s friends,” said Antoine Price, the restaurant’s general manager. “You have to be known. I’m not trying to blatantly put it out there.”

Hot’s Kitchen, just steps from the Pacific Ocean in Hermosa Beach, lists “The Burger” with foie gras as a“complimentary” side. The dish, topped with balsamic thyme onions and whole-grain mustard, costs $13, more than double the other burgers.

Opponents of the law say serving the liver free gets around the ban since the legislation prohibits only its sale. Supporters say it violates the law because customers know they are paying to get foie gras.

Pot With That?

“I live in a state where I can buy marijuana down the street, but I can’t buy foie gras,” Sean Chaney, 45, chef and owner at Hot’s Kitchen, said in an interview at the restaurant.“There’s something fundamentally wrong.”

No law enforcement has attempted to halt the practice, Chaney said.

“I’m never going to stop serving it,” Laurent Quenioux, a French-born Los Angeles-based chef who operates a pop-up, or a temporary restaurant, called Bistro LQ, said in a telephone interview. “There’s law as a society that makes sense, there’s law that you don’t wish to follow and this is one of them.”

The Los Angeles Police Department hadn’t issued any citations, Officer Karen Rayner, a spokeswoman, said in an e-mail last week.

Kathleen Brown, deputy director of the San Francisco Department of Animal Care and Control, said while her agency hasn’t issued any citations, it’s investigating a complaint.

Illicit Pleasure

Hot’s Restaurant Group Inc., which owns Hot’s Kitchen; Hudson Valley Foie Gras, a Ferndale, New York-based producer; and Association des Eleveurs de Canards et d’Oies du Quebec, a Canadian nonprofit representing foie gras producers, on July 2 sued to block the law.

The ban has been a boon for private chefs, said Jeffrey Nimer, owner and chef at Haute Chefs in Los Angeles, who prepares French cuisine in people’s homes at a rate of $125 to $350 per person. He said the ban doesn’t apply to foie gras prepared in private residences.

“Demand has gone way up,” Nimer said. “It’s just like Prohibition. The more you say it’s not allowed, the more people are going to want it.”

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USDA declares largest natural disaster area ever due to drought. With thanks to the Atlantic Wire

Dry riverbed http://www.theatlanticwire.com/national/2012/07/us-declares-largest-natural-disaster-area-ever-due-drought/54479/

The blistering summer and ongoing drought conditions have the prompted the U.S. Agriculture Department to declare a federal disaster area in more than 1,000 counties covering 26 states. That’s almost one-third of all the counties in the United States, making it the largest distaster declaration ever made by the USDA.

The declaration covers almost every state in the southern half of the continental U.S., from South Carolina in the East to California in the West. It’s also includes Colorado and Wyoming (which have been hit by devatasting wildfires) and Illinois, Indiana, Kansas and Nebraska in the Midwest. However, it does not include Iowa, which is the largest grain and corn producer in the U.S. A map may be viewed here.

The USDA’s latest crop report is projecting a 12 percent decrease in the corn harvest this year, which would still be the third-largest haul on record. Despite the negative outlook, grain prices remains quite low, according to CNBC.

The ruling allows farmers in those affected counties to apply for low-interest loans and face reduced penalties for grazing on protected lands. The USDA says the loans will only amount to around $4 million, but is one of the few “limited tools” the department has available to help farmers. Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack has asked for a complete re-authorization of all existing agriculture programs, including crop insurance, that can be used to support struggling farms.

About 53 percent of the country is facing “moderate to extreme drought” so far this summer.

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A world free of foot-and-mouth disease within sight – from the Homeland Security News Wire

http://www.homelandsecuritynewswire.com/dr20120708-a-world-free-of-footandmouth-disease-within-sight

The Departments of Homeland Security and Agriculture have developed a novel vaccine for one of the seven strains of the dreaded foot-and-mouth disease (FMD), paving the way for the development of the others; FMD is one of the most economically devastating diseases in the world for those who raise cows, sheep, pigs, goats, deer, and other cloven-hoofed animals is foot-and-mouth disease

The Departments of Homeland Security and Agriculture have developed a novel vaccine for one of the seven strains of the dreaded foot-and-mouth disease, paving the way for the development of the others.

One of the most economically devastating diseases in the world for those who raise cows, sheep, pigs, goats, deer, and other cloven-hoofed animals is foot-and-mouth disease (FMD). This highly contagious and fast-spreading disease causes fever, blisters on the feet and mouth (hence the name), loss of appetite, drooling, and lameness. Most herds affected are culled, as in the case of the 2001 outbreak in Great Britain when more than ten million animals had to be destroyed.

A DHS S&T release reports that traditional vaccines for FMD typically have three problems: first, there are so many different strains of the FMD virus that you must have a very well-matched vaccine to have any effect; second, traditional vaccines contain live FMD virus so they cannot be produced in the United States; and third, depending on a vaccine’s quality, it can be nearly impossible to determine whether an animal is actually infected, or has simply been exposed to the vaccine. Unless one can differentiate between vaccinated and infected animals, those animals vaccinated outside the United States with the traditional vaccine would be prohibited from entering any country that is designated FMD free. The United States has been FMD-free since 1929, but this is no guarantee that the disease will not strike again, as the United Kingdom learned in 2001after being FMD-free for thirty-four years.

Now, at the DHS Science and Technology Directorate’s (S&T) high-containment Plum Island Animal Disease Center (PIADC), located off the tip of Long Island, New York, scientists have produced a molecular vaccine against one strain of FMD, that 1) does not use a live FMD virus for vaccine manufacture, and, 2) can be used to differentiate an infected from inoculated animal using common diagnostic tests.

“This is the biggest news in FMD research in the last 50 years,” says PIADC director Dr. Larry Barrett. “It’s the first licensed FMD vaccine that can be manufactured on the U.S. mainland, and it supports a vaccinate-to-live strategy in FMD outbreak response.”

The new FMD vaccine, originally discovered by Dr. Marvin Grubman in the USDA Agricultural Research Service at PIADC, took seven years to develop and license. Dr. Bruce Harper, director of science at PIADC and the manager over PIADC’s Targeted Advanced Development Branch,

led the development team, who worked with industry partners GenVec Inc., a biopharmaceutical company in Gaithersburg, Maryland, and Antelope Valley Biologics, a Benchmark Biolabs affiliate in Lincoln, Nebraska.

The release notes that the FMD viral structure includes genetic material surrounded by a coat of proteins called a capsid. The new vaccine produces only the virus coat particles, which form empty viral capsids, and not the entire genome of the virus; thus it lacks the infectious viral nucleic acids. When the vaccine is injected into the animal the resulting empty viral capsids trigger a protective immune response.

“The absence of the nucleic acids of the real virus allows us to differentiate between vaccinated and infected animals,” said Grubman. “This is critical when determining that an animal is free of infection after an FMD outbreak. Now it will no longer be necessary to destroy all the animals in a herd when just a few become infected.”

The development of the vaccine was a team effort that required new scientific discoveries in order to work properly. Dr. John Neilan, the branch chief of the DHS Targeted Advanced Development Branch at PIADC, developed a way to address the immune response to the vaccine, which made it possible to achieve the level of effectiveness required for a USDA license. The vaccine has been granted conditional license for use in cattle by the USDA Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service’s Center for Veterinary Biologics. Under the conditional license, the product may be distributed should the need for it arise, as authorized by federal emergency management officials within USDA.

APHIS issued the conditional license to Antelope Valley Bios, Inc., who manufactured the vaccine under a contract from GenVec.

The FMD virus, noted since at least the sixteenth century, survives in lymph nodes and bone marrow. Large amounts of the virus are found in all body secretions and excretions and every time an infected animal breathes out it releases large amounts of infectious virus, exposing other animals.

FMD virus can survive on the ground for extended periods, and can be carried in contaminated feed, manure, on the tires of vehicles and on the shoes and clothes of people. It has been documented to spread by being carried with the wind over long distances. The most common route of introduction of FMD into a country has been through feeding contaminated meat product scraps to pigs, as was the case in the devastating 2001 outbreak in the United Kingdom.

There are seven known serotypes and more than sixty subtypes of the FMD virus, and there is no universal vaccine against the disease. Potential cost of an FMD outbreak in United States could exceed $50 billion. FMD is present today in Africa, the Middle East, Asia, and parts of South America.

PIADC has entered into a cooperative research and development agreement with an industry partner, Merial, to evaluate the FMD vaccine production process. S&T is also funding efforts to develop vaccines against other foreign animal disease threats such as classical swine fever, African swine fever, and Rift Valley fever.

“Our work isn’t over yet,” says S&T’s Agricultural Defense Branch chief Michelle Colby. “This vaccine protects against just one strain of FMD, so this is just the tip of a growing iceberg. DHS has several vaccines for other FMD serotypes ready to enter the licensure process.”

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Got Data? CDFA Unveils New Searchable Database of FREP Fertilizer Research Projects

Image of FREP Database SiteOver the past 20 years, CDFA’s Fertilizer Research and Education Program (FREP) has funded over $12 million dollars worth of scientific research on the environmentally safe and agronomically sound use of fertilizing materials.  One of the goals of this research is to advise growers as well as agricultural supply and service professionals on effective agronomic practices. However, to date, the only way for growers to learn about the results of these research projects has been to read the highly technical and lengthy research reports.

In an effort to make the wealth of information contained in these technical reports more user-friendly, the program has created a web-based “searchable” database.  Phase 1 of the database is now complete and can be accessed here. The database includes summaries of FREP technical reports which users can search by keyword, crop, county, and timeframe. Scientific findings from ongoing research will continue to be added to the database from a variety of sources including fertilizer recommendations collected through research institutions such as the University of California, Davis.

Phase 2 of the project will involve the creation of interactive crop fertilization guidelines. These guidelines will be created using a number of sources in addition to FREP research and will make the current data even more user-friendly through a visually interactive interface.  Additional information about Phase 2 can be found here.

This initiative is part of a larger departmental effort to bring practical solutions that aid growers in enhancing on-farm environmental stewardship practices and effectively using agricultural inputs. Balancing agricultural inputs with the output of food production to feed a growing global population is an important part of farming in California.

For further information on the FREP database effort, please contact FREP staff at frep@cdfa.ca.gov or (916) 900-5022.

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Alternative Fuels in California

Biofuels pumpIt’s been a watershed few weeks for alternative fuels in California with more than $30 million in grant funding announced recently by the California Energy Commission for research, development and distribution. At CDFA, we pay close attention to the distribution side at our Division of Measurement Standards (DMS).

One of the grants went to Propel Fuels, which will build 100 service stations in California offering gasoline, ethanol, and biodiesel fuels. Funding for projects like this is part of the California Energy Commission’s Alternative and Renewable Fuel and Vehicle Technology Program , created by Assembly Bill 118.

DMS performs quantitative and qualitative analysis of nearly all known fuels and automotive products, including alternative fuels, in its Sacramento and Anaheim laboratories. Fuel performance is tested in accordance with established, widely-used international methods. In addition, the division ensures compliance with advertising and labeling laws, thus promoting fairness and honest competition among businesses.

California law requires that all new models of commercial weighing and measuring devices, e.g. fuel dispensers, be evaluated and approved by DMS before their legal debut in commerce. That means that every E-85, biodiesel, CNG, LNG, and LPG dispenser at commercial locations in California has already been type-evaluated. Hydrogen gas dispensers have yet to pass the rigorous testing protocol, but DMS has received two applications for evaluation testing.

Which new fuels today will become mainstream tomorrow remains to be seen, but all indicators point to fuels not derived from petroleum. DMS has been protecting California drivers for 80 years with fuel quality, pump accuracy, and advertising and labeling standards; and is ramping up efforts to ensure that as new fuels emerge, consumers will enjoy the same protections as always, and businesses will comply with the same high standards.

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The Atlantic – The Triumph of the Family Farm

http://www.theatlantic.com/magazine/archive/2012/07/the-triumph-of-the-family-farm/8998/

We buried my grandfather last spring. He had died in his sleep in his own bed at 95, so, as funerals go, it wasn’t a grim occasion. But it was a historic one for our small rural community. My great-grandparents were early settlers, arriving in 1913 and farming the land throughout their lives. My grandfather continued that tradition, and now rests next to them on a hillside overlooking the family homestead.

If you’re a part of the roughly 99 percent of the North American population that doesn’t work on a farm, you might guess at what comes next—many a lament has been written about the passing of the good old days in rural areas, the family farm’s decline, and the inevitable loss of the homestead. But in many respects, that narrative itself is obsolete. That’s certainly true in my family’s case: The Freeland farm is still being cultivated by my father. And it is bigger and more prosperous than ever.

My dad farms 3,200 acres of his own, and rents another 2,400—all told, a territory seven times the size of Central Park. Last year, he produced 3,900 tonnes (or metric tons) of wheat, 2,500 tonnes of canola, and 1,400 tonnes of barley. (That’s enough to produce 13 million loaves of bread, 1.2 million liters of vegetable oil, and 40,000 barrels of beer.) His revenue last year was more than $2 million, and he admits to having made “a good profit,” but won’t reveal more than that. The farm has just three workers, my dad and his two hired men, who farm with him nine months of the year. For the two or three weeks of seeding and harvest, my dad usually hires a few friends to help out, too.

My father farms in northern Alberta, but his story is typical of large-scale family farmers across North America. Urbanites may picture farmers as hip heritage-pig breeders returning to the land, or a struggling rural underclass waging a doomed battle to hang on to their patrimony as agribusiness moves in. But these stereotypes are misleading. In 2010, of all the farms in the United States with at least $1 million in revenues, 88 percent were family farms, and they accounted for 79 percent of production. Large-scale farmers today are sophisticated businesspeople who use GPS equipment to guide their combines, biotechnology to boost their yields, and futures contracts to hedge their risk. They are also pretty rich.

“It definitely is not just your father,” Jason Henderson, the vice president and branch executive of the Omaha branch of the Federal Reserve Bank of Kansas City, told me. Henderson is essentially the Fed’s top analyst of the agricultural economy. “In the U.S. and Canada in 2010 and 2011,” he said, “farm incomes have been booming. U.S. net farming incomes rose more than 20 percent in each of those years. Farmers are flush with cash.”

Evidence of the boom is visible throughout the Farm Belt. “Tractor and combine sales have doubled, compared with 2003,” Henderson told me. “Pivot-irrigation-system sales are up. I’ve been driving across Nebraska, Wisconsin, and Iowa, and I have not seen so many shiny new grain bins, ever.”

Troy Houlder, my father’s local farm-machinery dealer, told me that in the 22 years he’s been in the business, “supply has never been this tight.” The vehicles in highest demand, he said, are midrange-horsepower tractors, which run from $70,000 to $110,000. If a farmer walked into his store in early May wanting to buy that kind of tractor, “he’s not getting one until probably November or December, even if he had a fistful of hundreds.”

Big Money has noticed these trends, and is beginning to pile in. “We are seeing a tremendous uptick in allocations and interest in farmland,” says Chris Erickson of HighQuest Partners, an agricultural consultancy and investor. Erickson told me that big institutional investors—pension funds, insurance companies—have recently been making investments in farmland ranging from “the several hundred millions to the billions.” Erickson said this broad interest is new, and is driven by the fact that “the fundamentals are changing dramatically.”

Jim Rogers, who co-founded the legendary hedge fund Quantum with George Soros, told me he believes farming is “one of the most exciting professions” in the world—and that the recent boom is likely to continue for a long time. “Throughout history, we’ve had long periods when the financial sectors were in charge,” he said, “but we’ve also had long periods when the people who have produced real goods were in charge—the farmers, the miners … All of you people who got M.B.A.s made mistakes, because the City of London and Wall Street are not going to be great places to be in the next two or three decades. It’s going to be the people who produce real goods.”

The rural renaissance isn’t just a curiosity: it’s an important new chapter in the story of America’s ability to thrive in the global economy, and in eras of disruptive technological change. As America struggles to adapt to a new wave of creative destruction that is shaking up the manufacturing and service sectors as profoundly as industrialization transformed the agrarian age, the resurgence of the family farm offers some lessons on how we might survive this wave of change, too.

At the heart of the farm boom are the very same forces that are remaking the rest of the American economy—technological revolution and global integration. When you think of technological revolution, you probably think of geeks in cool coastal spaces like the Google campus, or perhaps of math wizards on Wall Street. But one source of rural prosperity is the adoption of radical new technologies—and a consequent surge in productivity.

Henderson situates the change over the long sweep of history: “Prior to World War II, it took 100 hours of labor to produce 100 bushels of corn. Today, it takes less than two hours.” According to Erik O’Donoghue and Robert Hoppe, two economists at the Department of Agriculture, in 2009 U.S. farm output was 170 percent above its level in 1948, having grown at a rate of 1.63 percent a year. Those figures understate the productivity revolution, because these increasing harvests have been delivered with fewer inputs, particularly less labor and less land.

Tom Vilsack, the agriculture secretary, told me that since 1980, agriculture has been “the second-most-productive aspect of our economy … I’m 61 years old, and in my lifetime, corn production has increased 400 percent, soybeans 1,000 percent, and wheat 100 percent.”

Continuous technological improvements have resulted in a system of crop farming that someone who left the countryside 20 years ago would be hard-pressed to recognize, and certainly couldn’t operate (I stopped helping my dad in the early 1990s, when I became a foreign correspondent, and I am no longer allowed to drive any of his three combines). The computer systems powering a “precision farmer’s” seed drill and combine have been programmed with the exact parameters of all his fields and are synced up with one another. That means the seed drill knows what last year’s harvest was from each inch of land, thanks to data recorded by the combine, and can seed and apply fertilizer accordingly.

The cabs of today’s combines, the most sophisticated of farm machines, look like airplane cockpits, or the control rooms on factory floors. Monitors tell the farmer how many bushels to the acre his land is yielding even as he harvests his crop, give him a read on the moisture level, and tell him how much he is leaving behind on the field. Troy Houlder’s flagship New Holland combine, the CR9090, which sells for $520,000, has a new feature called IntelliCruise, which automatically speeds up or slows down the machine depending on how heavy the crop is. (The CR9090 also features a so-called buddy seat, often occupied by a grandchild, and a small refrigerator, so its owner-operator’s lunch stays cold.)

Fancy GPS systems and space-age tractors are what most excite the farmers I know and astound their city friends. But the most profound change is something an urban civilian driving through the Farm Belt wouldn’t even notice. Ever since people first domesticated cereal crops in the Fertile Crescent 11,000 years ago, farming has followed a seemingly immutable pattern—plow your field, seed your field, harvest your field, repeat. But today, farmers can skip the plowing step.

This historic shift is known as the no-till revolution. No-till was a quirky, fringe idea in the 1970s. Today, it is practiced on one-third of U.S. cropland. It has been made more effective by the genetic engineering of seeds and the adoption of crop varieties with herbicide tolerance or a resistance to pests.

Farmers are rightly proud of their swift embrace of innovation. But the biggest reason rural bank accounts are swelling today isn’t technology (nor is it government subsidies, though those have helped, and may no longer be justified). It is, rather, the growing global middle class. “The single most important factor in all of this is the changing diet in the emerging markets,” Erickson told me. “If people there go from earning $2 a day to $3 a day, they aren’t going to buy a Mercedes, but they are going to buy a piece of chicken or a piece of pork.” That translates into surging prices for feed grains like corn, soybeans, wheat, and canola, and surging farm incomes around the world. In the early 1990s, China, for instance, was self-sufficient in soybean production; in 2010, it was the top importer of U.S. agricultural products.

This shift has made for unusual bedfellows. At a time when the mainstream U.S. political discourse has identified China as a relentless and predatory exporter—and a destroyer of American jobs—farmers are outliers. Farmers “want China to expand,” Henderson told me, “because that means a bigger or broader market” for their crops. Some of America’s biggest supporters of open borders are down home on the farm.

Agriculture, which once employed most of the population and now employs almost no one, is often held up as a grim harbinger of what awaits U.S. manufacturing (and beyond that, white-collar professions that can be partially outsourced or performed by computers). The United States today has more bus drivers than it has farmers. Technological advances have drastically shrunk the number of people required to no-till the land.

Yet today’s agricultural renaissance also shows that there is some light at the end of the tunnel—or, if you will, a good harvest at the end of the furrow. Most encouragingly, the agricultural boom shows that globalization really is a two-way street, and not just for the geniuses at Apple and Goldman Sachs. The rising global middle class wants hamburgers—which is where farmers come in—but it also wants hundreds of other middle-class comforts, and as it grows richer, it will be able to afford more of them. Helping to fill these wants is where many of the rest of us should look for opportunity. And you don’t have to work for a corporate behemoth or have a venture capitalist on your speed dial to take advantage of the changing world economy. One of the most surprising aspects of the farm story is that its heroes are self-employed entrepreneurs, albeit ones who own a lot of land.

Of course, that still leaves open the question of what to do about all those jobs being lost. One of the great, and largely forgotten, triumphs of American society and government has been how smoothly U.S. farmers and their communities negotiated the creative destruction of the early 20th century and emerged triumphant when it was over. Lawrence Katz, a Harvard professor who is probably America’s most esteemed labor economist, has, together with his partner and fellow Harvard professor, Claudia Goldin, studied how they did it. The answer, Katz told me, was heavy investment in education: “Iowa, Nebraska, the Dakotas, California—these were the leaders in the high-school movement.”

Katz said this big investment in education was a deliberate response to the rapid technological advances and productivity gains in both agriculture and manufacturing. Farmers could see that machines meant fewer hands would be needed on the land, while new jobs were being created in the cities. So they built schools to educate their children for those new roles. The strategy worked: high school made the children who stayed home better farmers and gave the rest the tools to leave. In fact, the Farm Belt’s high-school movement was so successful that farm children who moved to the big cities soon became the bosses of the native-born urbanites. “They tended to be more educated than the city slickers and move to better jobs in the city than the locals,” Katz said.

The challenge those Midwestern farm communities faced same 100 years ago was remarkably similar to the challenge much of America faces today—an economic transformation that is making the country richer and more productive, but that also means most of our children won’t be able to do the same jobs we do. A high-school education was enough for the children of farmers in the early 20th century. Children today will need college, with an emphasis on quantitative and analytical skills, if they are to thrive.

But while today’s problem would seem familiar to those early-20th-century farmers, today’s response would not. “We did a better job in that period of preparing the next generation for their new context than we are doing today,” Katz said. “These areas made the right level of investment in education. We have not even approached the equivalent today.”

The farming towns of the past saw themselves as true communities, with a collective responsibility to ready their children for the future. That sensibility has broken down. “Areas that had a larger share of older citizens actually were more supportive of education, which is the opposite of today,” Katz told me.

Today’s wealthy farmers, and their prosperous city cousins, are the beneficiaries of a long-ago communal decision to invest in the future. We could learn from their great-grandparents.

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The Food Dialogues and the search for common ground

CDFA Secretary Karen Ross (center) speaking at the Food Dialogues on June 21, 2012 at UCLA. To her left is Illinois farmer Katie Pratt. To her right is the moderator, author Michael Specter.

CDFA Secretary Karen Ross (center) speaking at the Food Dialogues on June 21, 2012 at UCLA. To her left is Illinois farmer Katie Pratt. To her right is the moderator, author Michael Specter.

Last week, I had the great pleasure of participating in a discussion panel at the Food Dialogues, a program presented at UCLA by the U.S. Farmers and Ranchers Alliance, which was established to try to make a major contribution to the ongoing national discussion about food. We live in an extraordinary time with regard to the number of media stories and web postings about food and agricultural production. News about food is everywhere.

I believe this collective conversation is critical as we work together toward an understanding of what agriculture is today: small farms and large; plants and animals; organic, sustainable and bio-dynamic; conventional and high tech; urban farmers and farm workers; products for markets around the world and direct to chefs five miles from the farm. We can do it all. Our diversity in California agriculture is our resilience and what makes us strong.

Food security for the 7 billion people that inhabit the planet today and the projections that the population will rapidly grow to 9 billion by 2050 represent a profound opportunity for agriculture – but also bring a lot of pressure. Either way, the prospect is driving change and requires us to work across sectors, across borders, and across the globe to find solutions for how we grow, process and deliver food with fewer natural resources in the midst of climate change.

Increasing production for global food security is something that must be accomplished in the midst of fevered debate nationally and locally about the make-up of our food system. Should local production lead the way? Should we rely more on mass-production? What is sustainable as we look to feed 9 billion people?

It was an honor for me to participate with the highly qualified panel members in last week’s discussion. It is a conversation that needs to continue throughout the country because it highlights all we have in common – a passion for agriculture; a commitment to preserving the land for future generations of family farmers; and an understanding of how we are continually improving our practices and our businesses to meet consumer expectations.

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NY Times/Reuters – French classify ancient vines as national treasure

http://www.nytimes.com/reuters/2012/06/26/world/europe/26reuters-wine-plague.html

A wine plague spread by lice destroyed vines in France in the 19th century but a small area in the Pyrenees, which contains plants up to 200 years old, was spared and is being classified as a national heritage monument.

Like other national treasures such as the Palace of Versailles and Notre Dame cathedral, the vines in the Ardour valley will be protected.

They contain the ancient DNA of local grape varieties. Some grapes are still being used with grapes from younger generation vines to make Saint-Mont wine.

“It is an exceptional plot,” said Olivier Bourdet-Pees, director of the Plaimont wine making firm. “The vines go back 200 years. They were planted in 1800 and 1810. There are 29 different grape varieties of which seven were unknown,” he said.

The vine disaster forced many vintners from regions such as Bordeaux and Burgundy to seek grafts, or entire vines, from as far away as America.

The vines of Bordeaux were ravaged by the phylloxera outbreak from 1865, a decade after the famous classification of great wines in 1855, and had to be replanted with imported grafts on remaining stems.

In Burgundy, vintners pulled up their old French vines and replanted them with American pinot noir until they discovered that grafting was the best method.

SAFEGUARDING A NATIONAL HERITAGE

Scientists have been researching the plants and the grapes as part of a mission to safeguard the national heritage. On June 1, the local heritage and sites commission of the Midi Pyrenees region included the vines on the list of national historical monuments.

“This plot of 40 acres contains very old and non-grafted stocks and offers a remarkable example of biodiversity and of genetic heritage: 600 vines in 12 rows, some 20 different varieties of which seven have not previously been recorded,” the regional authorities said in a statement.

The plot also showed traces of ancient methods of agriculture, with double rows of vines planted in squares. Although the production is too small for a special wine, the vegetal material can be used to make younger vines.

For eight generations the plot has been in the hands of the family of vintner Jean-Pascal Pedebernade. About 20 years ago, scientists started to study the vines. It took them until 2008 to completely map the genetic make-up of the plants in a study that helped sway the commission in its decision.

The sandy soil plot lies near the village of Sarragchies near Saint-Mont in the Gers, in southwest France. The vines are planted wide apart, which may explain why it resisted the attacks by the phylloxera aphids that traveled to Europe from their original habitat in the United States.

Saint-Mont has its own AOC wine denomination. It is a sturdy wine like the Madiran, which is also produced by the vintners associated in the Plaimont cooperative group. Its headquarters is in the former Benedictine monastery whose monks planted vines around the year 1050 in the Middle Ages. The group also makes the sweet golden Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh and the Cotes de Gascogne wines.

The Saint-Mont AOC area has 46 villages and uses the Tanat, Pinenc, Cabernet France and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes for red and rose wines as well as Gros Manseng, Arrufiac and Petit Courbu for the whites.

While the cabernets are widely used elsewhere, the other grape varieties are typical for the region. Its producers are proud of the biodiversity of the area, which is helpful in the ultra competitive market for inexpensive wines.

Production is about 8 million bottles, half in red, 30 percent in whites and the rest in rosé. Two-thirds of the production is consumed in France with exports mainly to other European countries, the United States, Canada, Australia, Japan and China. They sell in the range of seven to 14 euro per bottle ($8.77 to $17.54).

Other parcels of vines have also resisted phylloxera.

The Bollinger champagne firm has two walled pre-phylloxera vineyards, which it uses in its rare Vieilles Vignes Francaises. The 2000 vintage sold for 600 euro ($751.76) a bottle.

Other old plots include Romorantin in the centre of France, where Henry and Jean-Sebastien Marionnet claim to own a vineyard planted in 1850. The oldest vines they use for their La Pucelle de Romorantin are 160 years old, mixed with grapes from younger vines grown from the sprouts of the old vines from 2007.

The Stara Trta vines at Maribor in Slovenia are reputed to be more than 400 years old, while the oldest in France, in the city of Reims, are believed to be at least 344 years old.

 

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Parody video – “I’m Farming and I Grow it”

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Thoughts on a Successful Trip and the Endless Opportunities for California Exporters

Our California trade delegation concluded our trip to Asia last week with a visit to Seoul, South Korea – the Land of the Morning Calm. This is an English translation of the meaning of Josean, a long reigning dynasty in Korea.

Korea, like China, is full of potential! Our trade delegation was excited by the number of high quality trade leads, introductions and possibilities for new business relationships that emerged from the variety of meetings and events they attended.  As Secretary, it was my pleasure to visit and thank some of the longstanding Korean businesses that continue to have a great relationship with California and our products.

E-mart store in Seoul, South Korea

E-mart store in Seoul, South Korea

From my meetings with retail chains and importers/distributors, South Korea is looking to conduct business with California companies. One visit, with       E-mart’s Global Sourcing Division, emphasized the fact that not enough California businesses were “knocking at their door” to introduce products to Korean consumers – this from one of the largest retail chains in Korea. Our products are popular; they are in demand, renowned for their safety and quality and eager to be purchased by Korean consumers who want to benefit from the tariff reductions made possible by the U.S.- Korea Free Trade Agreement.

Secretary Ross with Chef Edward Kwon at the Taste of California Event in Seoul, South Korea.

Secretary Ross with Chef Edward Kwon at the Taste of California Event in Seoul, South Korea.

I also had the great opportunity to participate in a “Taste of California” event faciliated by the California Tourism Commission that highlighted our agricultural products to Korean lifestyle media. More than 20 journalists from travel, food and social media outlets attended the event which featured dishes and commentary from the Celebrity Chef Edward Kwon former host of the reality cooking competition Yes Chef. The presentation and transformation of California ingredients into uniquely flavorful dishes will help generate media exposure and consumer demand for California and our food products.

California Agricultural Trade Delegation with U.S. Ambassador Sung Kim outside the Ambassador's residence

California Agricultural Trade Delegation with U.S. Ambassador Sung Kim outside the Ambassador’s residence

I know that the companies that participated in this business delegation were impressed with the number and variety of meetings they conducted in Shanghai and Seoul.  They are also impressed with the potential these markets hold for California grown products.  I look forward to joining future business delegations and providing resources and services for our companies to help them expand within these and other dynamic markets.

 

(Secretary Ross was in Asia as part of a trade delegation funded by the California State Trade Export Program and facilitated by the Fresno Center for International Trade Development.)

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